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Salicylic acid isn’t new, but it’s iconic. From unclogging pores to calming blemishes, here’s why it still earns a place in every skincare routine
Summary
1What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a part of the beta hydroxy acid (BHA) family, a group of exfoliating acids with a knack for going where others can’t…
2Possible benefits and uses of salicylic acid
Salicylic acid offers several potential benefits for your skin, and its uses go beyond simply fighting spots…
3Side effects
While experts generally consider salicylic acid safe to use on the skin, it’s important to be aware of its potential side effects…
Say hello to your new skincare sidekick: salicylic acid. With many possible benefits, more people are adding it to their skincare routines.
But what’s the science behind this skincare standout, and how can you unlock its full, radiant potential without hitting any bumps along the way?
Let’s uncover what is thought to make salicylic acid so effective and show you how to slot it into your skincare routine like a true glow-getter.
What is salicylic acid?
Salicylic acid is a part of the beta hydroxy acid (BHA) family, a group of exfoliating acids with a knack for going where others can’t.1
Unlike alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which dissolve in water and exfoliate the skin’s surface, BHAs are oil-soluble, meaning they can slip through the oil in your skin to break down anything that might be blocking your pores, like excess oil or dead skin cells. Alongside this, it can also promote your skin to make new skin cells.2 The result? Potentially clearer pores and fewer blackheads.3
But that’s not all – salicylic acid isn’t just a pore-purifying pro. It also boasts anti-inflammatory properties that may help tackle acne-prone skin. And, as it’s less irritating than AHAs, like glycolic acid, it may be a more suitable alternative for sensitive skin types.2,4 Combine its deep-cleansing anti-inflammatory and oil-balancing powers, and you’ve got a true skincare all-rounder ready to tackle whatever your skin throws its way.2
Originally extracted from willow bark, salicylic acid has been a trusted tool in skincare for many years.5 Today, it’s synthesised for use in cleansers, toners and targeted treatments to help you achieve a clearer, healthier complexion.5 Its versatility has earned it a spot on the must-have list for anyone looking to level up their skincare game.
Possible benefits and uses of salicylic acid
Salicylic acid offers several potential benefits for your skin, and its uses go beyond simply fighting spots.
Salicylic acid penetrates deep into your pores, clearing out oil, dead skin cells and debris that may lead to whiteheads, blackheads and breakouts.6 This acid can give the illusion of smaller pores by keeping them clear and may help prevent new blemishes, leaving your skin looking smoother and more even.7
Say goodbye to harsh scrubs that can leave your skin red and raw. Salicylic acid works as a gentle chemical exfoliant, helping to slough away dead skin cells without the irritation of physical exfoliants.7 It may reveal a brighter, smoother complexion while improving skin texture.
Salicylic acid works to address acne at its source. Its pore-cleansing action removes build-up, while its anti-inflammatory properties may ease redness and swelling.6 This dual effect could make it a practical choice for minimising blemishes and managing mild to moderate acne.7
Salicylic acid’s anti-inflammatory effects may be effective at tackling skin prone to breakouts.4 It may also speed up the healing of inflamed blemishes, leaving your skin looking clearer and with a more even tone.8
For oily and combination skin types, salicylic acid helps regulate sebum production.5 This oil-balancing effect can help keep your skin feeling fresh and looking matte, while also reducing the risk of clogged pores.6
Regular use of salicylic acid may help improve uneven skin texture by softening rough patches and reducing the appearance of fine lines and acne scars.1,9
It may also be effective for conditions such as keratosis pilaris, helping to minimise bumps and smooth the overall surface of the skin.10
Salicylic acid isn’t just for your face. It may even help reduce scalp flaking and dandruff, potentially relieving scalp irritation.11
Salicylic acid may also come to the rescue for conditions such as warts and verrucas, and could even help tackle corns and calluses.12
How to use salicylic acid
Ready to introduce salicylic acid into your routine? Here’s a step-by-step guide to maximise its benefits and minimise irritation:
- start with a patch test. Before diving in, test salicylic acid on a small area of skin to check for any adverse reactions 1
- pick the right product. You’ve got a variety of options when it comes to salicylic acid – from cleansers for a quick refresh, to toners for all-over care and serums or spot treatments for targeted action. If you’re new to salicylic acid, you might want to start with a lower concentration in a cleanser or wash-off product, such as 0.5–2%.13 For conditions like body acne or keratosis pilaris, you can gradually explore products with higher concentrations of up to 6%, but be sure to check in with your GP first14
- introduce it gradually. Slow and steady wins the race. Consider starting with salicylic acid two to three times per week, particularly if you have sensitive skin. As your skin adjusts, you can gradually increase how often you use it, even up to several times a day, depending on the condition you’re treating and the product15
- timing is everything. Use salicylic acid after cleansing but before heavier products such as moisturisers. This allows it to penetrate your pores and target build-up5
- combine with care. Be mindful when layering salicylic acid with other active ingredients. For example, avoid pairing it with retinoids in the same routine, as this could irritate your skin15
- hydrate and protect. Follow up with a nourishing moisturiser after applying salicylic acid to help prevent dryness and protect your skin barrier5,16
- be consistent. Regular, moderate use will help you achieve better long-term results than overloading your skin. Stick to your routine, and you may notice a clearer, smoother and more balanced complexion. Keep in mind that it may take several weeks to see the benefits of salicylic acid15
Salicylic acid side effects
While experts generally consider salicylic acid safe to use on the skin, it’s important to be aware of its potential side effects. Here’s what to watch out for:5,15
- dryness and peeling. Salicylic acid works by exfoliating dead skin cells, but using it too often can leave your skin feeling tight or flaky. Don’t worry – pair it with a hydrating moisturiser to help combat dryness and peeling
- mild irritation. If you’re new to salicylic acid, you might notice temporary redness, light tingling or sensitivity as your skin adjusts to the new routine. Start slow, and your skin will thank you in the long run
- allergic reactions. Although rare, some people may experience severe redness, swelling or itching when using salicylic acid. If this happens, stop using it immediately and consult a healthcare professional
- increased sensitivity. If your skin feels extra sensitive, dial back your salicylic acid usage and focus on hydrating and soothing products to help your skin recover
Always patch test salicylic acid on a small area of your skin before applying it more broadly to your face or body.1
The final say
Salicylic acid is an effective skincare ingredient that helps tackle common skin concerns, whether you’re dealing with acne, oiliness or uneven skin texture.1
As with any active ingredient, patience and proper use are key to reaping its benefits while avoiding irritation. Start slow, use it consistently and pair it with hydrating products to unlock its full potential.5
So, why not give salicylic acid a try? With its gentle yet effective action, it might just become the star of your skincare routine.
If you want to learn more about incorporating more acids, check out using acids in skincare and see if you can enhance your beauty routine.
Disclaimer - This article provides informational advice and is not a substitute for medical care. Curated by experts for accuracy, we take great care to ensure the information is up-to-date and relevant. However, you should always consult your GP or healthcare professional before using supplements or alternative products, particularly if you have medical conditions or are under supervision.
1. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Beta hydroxy acids [Internet]. [cited 2024 Dec 18]. Available from: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/beta-hydroxy-acids
2. Moghimipour E. Hydroxy acids, the most widely used anti-aging agents. Jundishapur J Nat Pharm Prod. 2012;7(1):9. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3941867/
3. Li, Shuting, et al. Efficacy and Safety of a Facial Serum and a Mask Containing Salicylic Acid and Lipohydroxy Acid in Acne Management: A Randomized Controlled Trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2023;22(9):2502–2511. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.15746
4. Lu J, et al. Salicylic acid treats acne vulgaris by suppressing AMPK/SREBP 1 pathway in sebocytes. Exp Dermatol. 2019;28(7):786–94. https://doi.org/10.1111/exd.13934
5. Wiśniewska J, Klasik-Ciszewska S, Duda-Grychtoł K. Salicylic acid and its use in cosmetology. Aesthetic Cosmetology and Medicine. 2023 Jun;12(3):91–5. Available from: http://aestheticcosmetology.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/ACM-2023-03-vA-Wisniewska-EN.pdf
6. Măgerușan SE, et al. A comprehensive bibliographic review concerning the efficacy of organic acids for chemical peels treating acne vulgaris. Molecules. 2023;28(20):7219. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28207219
7. Soleymani T, et al. A practical approach to chemical peels: A review of fundamentals and step-by-step algorithmic protocol for treatment. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2018;11(8):21–8. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6122508/
8. Decker A, Graber EM. Over-the-counter acne treatments: A review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2012;5(5):32–40. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3366450/
9. Fabbrocini G, et al. Acne scars: Pathogenesis, classification and treatment. Dermatol Res Pract. 2010;893080:1–13. https://doi.org/10.1155/2010/893080
10. Pennycook KB, McCready TA. Keratosis pilaris. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK546708/
11. Ranganathan S, Mukhopadhyay T. Dandruff: The most commercially exploited skin disease. Indian J Dermatol. 2010;55(2):130–4. https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.62734https://doi.org/10.4103/0019-5154.62734
12. NICE. Warts and verrucae: Topical salicylic acid [Internet]. [cited 2024 Dec 18]. Available from: https://cks.nice.org.uk/topics/warts-verrucae/prescribing-information/topical-salicylic-acid/
13. Tan AU, et al. A review of diagnosis and treatment of acne in adult female patients. Int J Womens Dermatol. 2017;4(2):56–71. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijwd.2017.10.006
14. Reddy S, Brahmbhatt H. A narrative review on the role of acids, steroids, and kinase Inhibitors in the treatment of keratosis pilaris. Cureus. 2021;13(10):e18917. https://doi.org/10.7759/cureus.18917
15. MedlinePlus Drug Information. Salicylic acid topical [Internet]. [cited 2024 Dec 18]. Available from: https://medlineplus.gov/druginfo/meds/a607072.html
16. Purnamawati S, et al. The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: A review. Clin Med Res. 2017;15(3-4):75–87. https://doi.org/10.3121/cmr.2017.1363
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